Sunday, March 16, 2014

Worldwide Quilting Day

Visit you local Quilt Shop!
Have a great day quilting with friends.

Saturday, October 12, 2013

My First Quilt Appliqué

Butterflies In Flight

This is my first attempt at Appliqué. My neice has been my teacher. So one week in August when I went to Louisiana to visit this was my lesson. I bought all my supplies and Roxanne helped me put the colors together so they would look nice. I think I did pretty well on my first attempt. 
I found a very easy quilt pattern I wanted to make for my friends new granddaughter.

I just love the simple fluttering butterflies.
I used clear thread to sew the appliqué butterflies on.
I wanted rounded corners. I tool a paper plate and used it for the corner cutting.

I used a rainbow of colors for the butterflies.
I had scraps for the grandmother that she used for her last two grandchildren.
I used a few of the scraps on this granddaughters butterfly quilt.
She cried when she saw the fabric I had used. I knew it would mean a lot to her.

My niece Roxanne did the free hand machine quilting for me.
I just love the look. Its like the butterflies are flying.

I used a ruffle with the binding sewn already on it for my finishing.
 I like to machine the binding on front and hand sew it on the back.
What do you think!
I love the finished quilt.

This is Brynn !
When I saw this pretty quilt I knew it was the one to make for this little princes.

Thanks for stopping by and come back soon. 
Stay creative!

Saturday, October 5, 2013

DIY: How To Drill Holes In Glass

  Don’t be intimidated or discouraged by how many pictures there are – I just want to be sure and show each step for those who think it is too difficult to deal with.

In addition to your drill, you will need these items:

You can purchase diamond grit hole saws in various sizes.  These are the two sizes I used.  The 3/16” is the perfect size if you want to attach a knob to the top.  Obviously the size of the rope you use will determine what size of the larger hole saw you decide to use.

Just an FYI, the above pieces are by Bosch and fit any standard drill.

If you use the 3/16” saw, you will also need a 1/4” drill bit.  I will explain why in a minute.
Getting started…

You want to tape the inside and outside of the vessel where you will be drilling.  This helps prevent splintering.   You also need to mark the center of the vessel.

Insert the AutoStart Quick Change Mandrel into your drill and use it to score the point of entry.  Once you place it on your mark, it will push down and you will begin to drill.

DO NOT PUT HEAVY PRESSURE ON THE DRILL.  You will risk breaking the glass and possibly an injury. 

Very light pressure to help guide the bit is all you need – and patience to let it happen slowly.

This is what it will look like after you have scored it:


Next, you will use the 3/4” saw.  The nice part about this is that it snaps right onto the mandrel while the mandrel is still in your drill.  You won’t exchange bits or saws during the process.


So, with the mandrel still attached, you still have the scoring point inside the 3/4” saw.

You will place the point back on your scoring mark, push down so that the 3/4” saw blade is touching your glass and again, without putting heavy pressure on it, drill to score the large hole.

You will see both scores:


You will now begin to drill the hole, but first, a couple of things to point out.

1)  You will be pouring a small amount water where you are drilling, just as you would when cutting tile.  For those of you who are not aware of this method, it is to keep the saw and glass lubricated and cool.  It will also prevent the glass from getting too hot and breaking or cracking.

Because you are using water, you should really be using a cordless drill!

2)  I used painter’s tape but clear packaging tape would be a better choice if you have it on hand. I was out and  wasn’t patient enough to go buy some for this.

The painter’s tape will eventually tear as you drill while the packaging tape will last longer (plus it is easier to find your center with clear packaging tape.)

Once your hole is started and you have drilled down a ways, you can remove the tape if it gets too messed up.  Just be sure to continue to add water as you drill through!

You will eventually have a hole like this:

(Sorry I forgot to take a picture before I put the rope in!)

If you end up with some rough edges, you can try sanding them down with a sanding block or with a Dremel (or similar) tool if you have one.  However, if you tape and use water, you should end up with a pretty smooth edge.

You are now ready to attach the rope handle.  I chose to do a loop on my large cloche by inserting the two ends through the hole and double-knotting the inside.  I then double-knotted the loop on the outside at the surface so that it won’t slide around.

You are finished!

Now, if you want to do one with a knob rather than a rope for the handle, here is the way to go about drilling the hole:

You will want to get a small piece of wood such as a shimmy, or cut of the end of a paint stir stick.

Keeping in mind as to where the center of the base is (measure by criss-crossing string or tape and where it meets will be your center) you will tape the shimmy securely onto the glass.

You will then get your 1/4” drill bit and drill a hole through the wood (not the glass!) where your center point is.

NOTE:  You will use the 1/4” bit if you are using the 3/16” hole saw.  If you are using a hole saw of a different size, you need to adjust the bit size.  In other words, your bit should be just slightly larger than the hole saw so that the hole saw can fit in the hole, but not slide around.

You will now remove the drill bit and attach the 3/16” hole saw to your drill.  You will notice that the end of this hole saw is not a sharp point like a screw or a drill bit….it is in fact a flatter surface with a diamond cut edge.  This is why you need the wood shimmy as a guide.  Without it, the hole saw will slide and you will go off center.

In the same manner as the larger hole, start drilling without putting heavy pressure on the drill.

NOTE:  YOU WILL NEED TO USE WATER WHILE DRILLING JUST LIKE ABOVE! Sorry I forgot to get a picture of that.


Keep on a drillin’ until you go through:


You can now attach a knob of your choice and admire your work!

I am reposting this from Turnstyle Vogue Blog.
 Drop by her blog and check it out!

Check out this blog and see what she does with glass wear!

Come back often to see what I am up to. 
Stay creative!

Sunday, August 4, 2013

A Quilters Prayer

Sunday, April 28, 2013

How to properly attach a border or sashing on a quilt 

{a free tutorial}
The key to having a square quilt is a square border. You must properly attach all borders and sashings to ensure a square quilt.

First, measure, measure top of the quilt, the bottom and the center.
They should all be the same size but often are not. When they are not you will need to take an average.
Next, after you have cut borders to the proper width, you will cut them to the proper length. Since my quilt is 8 1/2" I will cut the right and left side borders to 8 1/2".
Lay the borders over right side on the quilt and pin, I will generally pin every 6" depending on the quilt size.
Sew using 1/4" seam allowance. 
Press. First you will press on the wrong side of the fabric, as shown below, to set the seams.
Next you will open it up and press.
After pressing you will measure again. First measure the bottom. Mine is measuring 11 1/4"
Next, measure the center, mine is again measuring 11 1/4"
Last measure the top, mine is again measuring 11 1/4". 
Now cut your top and bottom borders. I will cut mine 11 1/4".
Flip the border fabric over, right sides together and pin to quilt top and bottom. Again, pinning as needed, generally every 6".
Press, now you have a perfectly square quilt.
As a rule of thumb I always press to the dark.
Check out this great blog.

Friday, April 26, 2013

 At Home

I saw this nice blog and wanted to share it with my readers. See how easy it is to make a drop in sewing table from a desk or table.
I love thrift 
repourpsed items.

    At 4'10", my arms were always uncomfortably perched in the air reaching up to the sewing bed of my Bernina .  My arms were wildly waving in the area to reach the sewing surface which was about 3 1/2" above the table. You can get a sense of how crap sewing is on a normal desk from this photo taken just last week. The surface isn't flat. Cords drape everywhere. It's uncomfortable. A friend came over and we had a good chat about the height of machines and sore shoulders. She found a solution in a portable table, but it just wasn't my style at all. 

I fret about where I sew almost as much as what I sew.  I shopped around and realized there aren't many good choices when it comes to modern sewing cabinets. In days gone by, you could get an awesome Singer cabinet or something mad, crazy awesome like this midcentury modern sewing desk. So utterly clever, the machine stores inside and then flips up for sewing. Nowadays, sewing cabinets tend to be both expensive and ugly. The cheapest start around $150, but they run into the thousands. I lamented my options.

I also realized that I absolutely love how my ALEX and MELLTORP fit together. With that in mind, we set off this morning to the shops to make our own homegrown IKEAhack.

- IKEA EFFEKTIV door panel - $5 in AS-IS (any laminated panel will do!)
- 4  Cap-head 3/8" x 6"  (we could have gone shorter)
- 8 Washers - 3/8" 
- 8 Nuts - 3/8"

Total Supply Spend $13.32 AUD since we already owned the table. $62.32 to buy it all with the table.

- pencil or marking tool
- jigsaw or router
- drill with 3/8" bit
- spanner or wrench for nuts&bolts
- orbital sander or sanding block

The basic idea was to mount the door panel below the surface of the desk. This would allow the machine to be sunken into the table and let the sewing bed sit flush. We decided using bolts to mount the panel would make it easily adjustable so we could move it up and down to assure the surface was flat.

I traced the outline of my Bernina sewing machine and it's acrylic sewing bed onto the MELL TOP table allowing slightly extra room for cords. Craig used the jigsaw to cut it out.

We used an orbital sander and some sanding disks to smooth out the rough bits.

We then marked out holes and mounted the EFFEKTIV door on bolts below the desk. It all went so quick that I missed pictures at this stage. Using bolts allowed us to adjust things up and down to make sure the sewing bed sat flush with the desk. We reinforced it all with nuts and now I've got a custom sewing table that perfectly fits my machine.

I think it's a great solution. The only downfall, if I must pick one, is that bolt heads do stick up slightly as we couldn't find long bolts with countersink heads. The cap heads are round and smooth though and don't interfere with fabric flowing over them and aren't uncomfortable for my arms. They are noticeable but not annoying. Aesthetically, we could have done a little better there.

The Bernina sewing bed has a slight arch to it naturally, but the edges sit smoothly with the desk.

We saved ourselves a fortune, and we've made something that we're proud of.  The supplies cost us $13.32 and we got some awesome new power tools to play with.

Happy hacking. Happy crafting. -- Amy


Edit: I was asked for additional photos to answer some questions:

Can you show me the final construction so that I can show my husband? 
Here it is. You can see the small door is mounted below the table. It is sandwiched between a pair of nuts on each bolts.. This photo is taken from floor height. You really don't see this from eye height because of the lip of the table.

You could use white iron-on melamine to line the edge of the desk.
Great tip. We had thought of it and decided not to since it's not visible when the machine is in place. Good tip for others who are less accurate with the jigsaw and sanding. If you are going to use the melamine make sure your hole will be large enough with the melamine in place.

What if you need to sew a cuff?
I can lift the sewing plastic sewing bed out and still work around the machine arm. Or I can pick up the sewing machine move it over on top of the rolling cart briefly and sew up there.

What are those shiny silver things?
Smooth nut  heads. Ideally, we'd use countersink nuts but we couldn't find any over 4"  in our local hardware store. We decided to use the roundish smooth cap heads. If they seem like they'd annoy you, you could always use a bigger bottom surface instead of a cabinet door. Then you could move the mounts further out and away from your machine. We needed ours close so the ALEX would still fit under when not in use as a cutting surface. You can see there's only an inch of clearance for the ALEX.

Is it hard to change the bobbin?
My small hands can reach underneath, but it is a little fiddly. The easy way is to slightly tilt the machine and slide the sewing bed off. This gives easy access for cleaning as well.

BY: AMY                                               
                                                     Stop by this blog you will love it!
Stop by again and see what I might be up to or teaching...Stay creative